Anatoli Boukreev, a guide on another expedition led by Scott Fischer, came and rescued several climbers, but during that time, Weathers had stood up and disappeared into the night. Associated Press articles: Copyright 2016 The Associated Press. He was breathing but appeared to be in a deep hypothermic coma, as good as gone. except for the Russian, Anatoli Boukreev. I feel a little guilty that I didn't love the book, just because I admire and respect Beck Weathers and his family. Beck Weathers is a pathologist living in Dallas. Peach Weathers knew nothing of the growing crisis. I heard a noise outside. Now, in the new movie 'Everest,' he'll relive his harrowing survival tale. I just sit down in the tent inside Camp IV," Gau recalled. What do you do? He stripped his Squirrel helicopter of all its excess weight and flew out to Everest to conduct one of the highest mountain rescues in history. Weathers spent the night in an open bivouac, in a blizzard, with his face and hands exposed. (It was then sliced off and attached to his face.) Bruce arrived with a bottle of whisky. But she was still breathing. However, nobody told Peach about this. Eager to climb Everest, he threw caution to the wind. There wasnt much to save. It may be your colleagues, It may be your God. Aint ever gonna happen. "I'm just ripping a corner around Nieman Marcus ladies wear, and I think to myself, 'How the mighty have fallen!' SHREVEPORT, LA -- Beck Weathers, M.D., survivor of the deadliest day in the history of Mt. He soon realized how wrong he was when he began to check his limbs. Back home in Dallas it was arranged for me to meet the hand surgeon. The ambient temperature fell to sixty below zero. If after that time he still couldnt see. And, for the last 15 years, he has told his story professionally as an inspirational speaker. These furnishings feature unusual patterns like shagreen, burl, python, and more. [6], Weathers published his book about his Everest experience and his life, Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest (2000),[2] and continues to practice medicine and deliver motivational speeches. It was a welcome relief after more than 100 hours of anxiety and fear. Why isn't he one of them?". At the time, the 1996 Mount Everest disaster was the deadliest in the mountains history. Some of the Sherpa, Deshun Deysel, Philip and myself were sitting in the mess tent. * In 1996, Patrick Conroy was sent to Nepal to report on South Africa&39;s first Everest expedition. Somehow Id reclaim not only her love, but the trust Id lost. At first I wasnt really worried, I expected that, once the sun was fully out, even behind my jet-black lenses my pupils would clamp down to pinpoints and everything would be infinitely focused. Colonel Madan Khatri Chhetri of the Nepalese Army pulled him from the mountain in the second-highest altitude helicopter rescue in human history. One of the first through the Khumbu Ice Fall was Jon Krakauer who recorded in his book, Into Thin Air, how it felt to be out of danger. By the time there was a break in the storm several hours later, Weathers had been so weakened that he and four other men and women were left there so the others could summon help. The truth was even more incredible. At 7:30(1.11)., Weathers, believing his vision would clear, wanted to proceed. After all, he had nothing to lose; his marriage had deteriorated because Weathers spent more time with mountains than his family. it was really painful. He hadn't eaten in three days, hadn't had water in two and was still, moreover, blind: But those events on Everest, chronicled so many times (and, alas, often better) elsewhere, end at Page 89. I was raised in a religious household, but as a young man 1 drifted away from spirituality, more out of apathy than any revolt or rejection of dogma, 1 fell that in old age 1 could return to these philosophical questions. As news of his incredible survival story made it back to base camp, further shock ensued. Peach Weathers reached out. True Mountain Rescue Stories - Glenn Scherer 2011-01-01 "Read about five historic mountain rescues-from the Great Northern Railway Rescue to Beck Weathers on Mt. For the first time since those fateful events, Makalu Gau has shared his incredible story in an exclusive interview with The Mountain Zone. 1996, A KILLER BLIZZARD exploded around the upper reaches of Mount Everest, trapping me and dozens of other climbers high in the Death Zone of the Earths tallest mountain. YouTube Beck Weathers returned from the 1996 Mount Everest disaster with severe frostbite covering much of his face. Just because she was a woman didnt mean she couldnt cope on this mountain. Colonel Madan Chhetri raised a single figure indicating he could only ferry one patient to safety. All rights reserved. ("Everything else in your entire life disappears, and it's just one step after the other," he says.) Jons jaw dropped right down to the middle of his chest. It's just not possible. I was supposed to be dead. Weathers hails Krakauer's bestselling "Into Thin Air," which targeted for partial blame the late Anatoli Boukreev, a rival team's guide, as the "definitive account." Peach was devastated. home in Texas. If youre going to come through an ordeal such asinine, you need an anchor. Besides myself, only Jon Krakauer. No one in camp thought he'd survive, but he regained some strength, and the next day, began an assisted descent, cracking jokes on the way. If they didnt make it, we were history anyway. Weathers is one of the most inexperienced people on the expedition, and on the afternoon of May 10, he is unable to ascend to the summit because he's been having serious problems with his eyesight. ", Metamorphosis is not simple work, though. [1] His autobiographical book, titled Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest (2000) includes his ordeal, but also describes his life before and afterward, as he focused on saving his damaged relationships.[2]. Colonel Madan was the Nepalese Army helicopter pilot who volunteered to rescue American climber Beck Weathers and Taiwanese climber Makalu Gau from Camp I last year in an Ecuriel AS350 B2. In the following excerpt from Weathers new book, Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest, the Dallas pathologist and former president of the medical staff at Medical City Dallas recounts the doomed expedition, his dramatic rescue, and his ongoing physical and spiritual recovery. But after being left for dead twice something incredible happened: Beck Weathers woke up. They told me this trip was going to cost me an arm and a leg, he joked to his rescuers as they helped him down. il changes nothing. Lieutenant. I am nearsighted and struggled for years on various mountains with iced-over lenses, balky contacts, and all sorts of gadgets designed to keep my field of vision clear. So far hed scaled a number of the Summits. Brings new meaning to the phrase Sunday Funday. It may be your friends. Not only was Beck Weathers walking and talking, but it seemed he had come back from the dead. Seaborn Beck Weathers (born December 16, 1946) is an American pathologist from Texas. The doctor would later describe him as being as close to death and still breathing as any patient he had ever seen. Hall wouldnt know if he d made it back safely or if he had inadvertently fallen off the mountain. However, this particular wind hovered at an average temperature of negative 21 degrees Fahrenheit and blew at speeds of up to 157 miles an hour. I don't want to die!" He'd been a committed motorcyclist and sailor but had gotten hooked on climbing on a trip to Rocky Mountain National Park when he was 40. I recorded their rotors blades beating the thin Everest air as the Sherpas looked on in amazement. ), "People like Beck make me cry," Brolin says when I ask about his own attraction to Weathers' story. They yelled at one another and pounded on each other's shoulders to stay warm and conscious. and Todd Burleson and Pete Athans. Weathers' assistance did not come close to assisting the Russian guide in his rescue effort. "Hands or no hands, this guy has to do something.". 1 remember silting in a chair when a big chunk of my right eyebrow, hair included, fell off in my hand. When he saw me. With that assumption, they only tried to make him comfortable until he died, but he survived another freezing night alone in a tent, unable to eat, drink, or keep himself covered with the sleeping bags with which he was provided. YOU ARE NOT GOING TO BELIEVE WHAT JUST WALKED INTO I>camp, I hey radioed down to Base Camp. Is there any hope? Peach asked. joined a group of eight ambitious climbers, Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest. which relayed the news to Dallas. just as he was taking his second shot on the first hole of the Royal Nepal Golf Club. Neal took her. Peach, who organized a daring helicopter rescue that brought him down to safety. The weather was clear and the team was upbeat. Weathers, who had recently had radial keratotomy surgery, soon discovered that he was blinded by the effects of high altitude and overexposure to ultraviolet radiation,[3] high altitude effects which had not been well documented at the time. Before long, however, Beck Weathers and his crew would realize just how brutal the mountain could be. There was nothing to it, really. "In that moment, I had no thinking about Mr. Chen. The den is full of their grandson's toys, and Beck is in the middle of it all. Passages like the following might better have remained in the bedroom: Peach: You said you were depressed, and that it was my fault. But when Weathers was badly injured in the May 10th disaster that claimed the lives of eight climbers, it was his wife. However, by morning, Gau said, as he and his Sherpas decided to start out for Camp IV on the South Col, Chen told Gau he wasn't feeling well enough to climb higher and would rest for several more hours at Camp III before starting up. You live according to a much more demanding personal code than others. He didnt look good, but Beck is Beck. Rescue officials said American Seaborn Beck Weathers and Taiwan's Ming-Ho Gau were rescued from Mount Everest. Of the eight clients and three guides in my group, five of us, including myself, never made it to the top. Although he had nearly perished on McKinley, and failed on Makalu, tonight his oxygen canister was on a generous flow, which allowed him sufficient oxygen to climb. Frostbite was not far off. I BEGAN HEARING RUMORS 01- A HELICOPTER RESCUE-PEACHS hidden hand. They enlisted Kay Bailey Hutchison, as well as Tom Daschle, the Democratic Senate minority leader, who lit a (ire under the State Department, which in turn contacted a line young man in the embassy in Katmandu. Hello! I yelled. And you have very little in your left hand. Shortly after 5 p.m., a climber descended, telling Weathers that Hall was stuck. A storm had begun to brew on top of the mountain, covering the entire area in snow and reducing visibility to almost zero before they reached their camp. And though he was close, his body was inching further from death by the minute. Assisted by her bunch of North Dallas power moms-any one of whom 1 believe could run a Fortune 500 company out of her kitchen-they proceeded to call everybody in the United States. The cold was beginning to act like an anesthetic on my mind. Beck Weathers was plucked off Mount Everest. As his basecamp companions rushed to comfort him Krakauer sank to his knees and buried his sobbing face into his hands. In May 1996, Weathers was one of eight clients being guided on Mount Everest by Rob Hall of Adventure Consultants. During the night, a Russian guide rescued the rest of his team but, upon taking one look at him, deemed Weathers beyond help. So I stepped out of line and let everyone pass, going from fourth out of thirty-some climbers to absolutely dead last. Nevertheless, he arrived ready to go at the base of Mount Everest on May 10, 1996. Boukreev twice was driven back to camp by the wind and cold. If something went wrong and Chhetri had to crash land on the mountain he could die within hours because he had not acclimatised to the altitude. But I knew that I could not climb above this point, a living-room sized promontory called the Balcony, about fifteen hundred feet below the summit, unless my vision improved. Daniel Aufdenblatten from Air Zermatt, Switzerland, while Swiss Mountain Guide, Richard Lenner hung on the sling and lifted the stranded climbers. Even more miraculously, they grew it on Weathers own forehead. He made it to the Khumbu Ice Fall, just below 20,000 feet, where a Nepalese army helicopter picked him up. and headed on down the Triangle. Yasuko and I were the acute problems, however. Nothing worked. A blizzard churned the air into a slurry of ice and snow. It sounded like a fairy tale: Aint ever happened. a publicist somewhere may have already chirped. He was abandoned by a Canadian doctor who described him as being as close to death as he had ever seen him. By most accounts, Weathers was unqualified to climb the world's highest peak -- in "Into Thin Air," Krakauer characterized his mountaineering skills as "less than mediocre" -- but this deficiency hardly set him apart from the bulk of the climbers scaling Everest that spring. His fellow climbers said that his frozen hand and nose looked and felt as if they were made of porcelain, and they did not expect him to survive. Reading it, however, felt like sucking in too much thin air. Back on the mountain, entombed in ice and left for dead, Weathers suddenly regained consciousness and stood up, at first believing he was a! Scott Fischer - the mountain's very own 'Mr Rescue' . All you have to do is steand rest, step and rest-hour after endless hour-until halfway up the face we shifted over in a traverse to the left. He soon was pushing himself toward loftier, ever more treacherous goals almost always at the expense of family life. He lives in Dallas, Texas, and is on the pathology staff at Medical City Dallas Hospital. From where we slopped the ice sloped away at a steep angle. THE HOMECOMING It was really not unpleasant.. Beck Weathers is dead. Enjoy unlimited access to all of our incredible journalism, in print and digital. But before the whole works was cut away, they took an impression of the original, using a piece of chewing-gum wrapper. I told her that I was to blame for everything that had happened to me. Blind, numb and severly frostbitten, he stumbled 300yd into Camp IV. Finally, read about mountaineer and Everest casualty Ueli Steck. It was not storm-level winds, but there were winds that made you want to get outside and be certain that the tent. But Mount Everest drew him as the greatest challenge of all. All the photographs Id ever seen of frostbite were of horribly swollen and blistered hands. But after his near-death ordeal, she gave him another chance: "If you can prove to me in a year that you're a different person, we'll talk about it." There were some grimly funny moments. He once worked out 18 hours a week, but now he gets his exercise by walking through a local mall. is a very serious mailer. The lowest camp on the mountain was way above the rated ceiling of the helicopter in question, an American EuroCopter Squirrel belonging to the Royal Nepalese Army. The operation was a radial keratotomy, in which tiny incisions are made in ones corneas to alter the eyes focal lengths and (presumably) improve vision. MAY 10 BEGAN AUSPICIOUSLY FOR ME. George Leigh Mallory, first attempted to climb the mountain. [7], Richard Jenkins portrayed Weathers in the 1997 television film Into Thin Air: Death on Everest. Now, here he was, standing in front of them, broken but very much alive. Hall had perished with another client in the blizzard that detonated atop the mountain, while below Weathers huddled with members of Boukreev's team, including the much-maligned Sandy Hill Pittman, who Weathers says began screaming, "I don't want to die! In fact. I sound remarkable lucid looking back, but shortly afterwards I simply lay down on the Comms tent floor and passed out for about three hours. (23), Hear the archived live audio broadcast from the summit, Read the transcript of the broadcast from the summit, May 21, 1997: Helicopter Crashes at Everest Base Camp (21), May 17, 1997: Dead Sherpa Found on Khumbu Glacier (17), May 16, 1997: Jet Stream Winds Blast Camp II (16), May 13, 1997: Receiving News from the North Side (15), May 13, 1997: RealAudio Interview with David Breashears, May 11, 1997: Five Climbers Presumed Dead on the North Side (14), May 9, 1997: Pulmonary Edema Evacuation from Base Camp (12), May 8, 1997: A Hasty Retreat to Base Camp (11), May 7, 1997: Sherpa Falls To His Death On The Lhotse Face (10), May 6, 1997: Spin: A Passenger to the Summit (9), May 5, 1997: Delayed at Advance Base Camp (8), May 4, 1997: NOVA Climbers Leave Base Camp for Their Summit Attempt (7), May 1, 1997: NOVA Team Prepares for Summit Attempt (6), April 26, 1997: Indonesian Expedition First to Summit in 1997 (5), April 23, 1997: Expedition Leader Dies at Everest Base Camp (4), April 22, 1997: Japanese Expedition Pulls Out (3), April 16, 1997: Traffic Reports on Everest (2). I will ask him. His left hand, robbed of all its fingers, has been surgically reshaped into an appendage that Weathers calls his "mitt." After the Canadian doctor had abandoned him, his wife had been informed that her husband had perished on his trek. The Sherpas seemed agitated as they waited at the Step among a throng of climbers waiting for their turns on the fixed ropes. Weathers, a 49-year-old Dallas pathologist, was worse off than most. Hutchison didnt really need a second opinion here. It reassured him to know that he and his Sherpas would not be alone on the upper mountain. This was not bed. It was a superb piece of flying from the Air Force officer and he soon touched down in basecamp where doctors rushed to assist. Or it may be. One climber said it was like being lost in a bottle of milk with white snow falling in an almost opaque sheet in every direction. At some point, his body warmed up and he regained consciousness. It began to get a little colder. The old Beck-and-Peach relationship is gone, but I dont yet know what will replace it Today, I do not consider my relationship with Beck to be fragile. And a TV movie based on Krakauer's book, coupled with the widespread release of the IMAX film Everest have only furthered this hunger for information. The hour came and went, as did four and five. Though he never climbed all Seven Summits, he still feels he came out on top. Hutchison and the Sherpas got back to camp and told everyone that we were dead. However, if the helicopter remains in 'ground effect' - ie, if it is hovering close to high grou Continue Reading 42 4 1 Matt Jennings While Weathers lay in the snow on Everest's South Col, most of the climbers in his group were escorted to safety. Delsalle's flight broke the record for the highest helicopter landing, previously held by Lt Col Madan Khatri Chhetri of the Nepali Air Force, who in 1996 rescued climbers Beck Weathers and Makalu Gau near Camp I at approximately 20,000ft (6,096m). I learned that miracles do occur. DEAD MAN WALKING Gau lost his hands and feet to the frostbite he suffered on his bivouac, but he remains thankful that he survived. Beck Weathers Character Analysis. Within hours the base camp technicians had alerted Kathmandu and were sending him to the hospital in a helicopter; it was the highest rescue mission ever completed. 1 dont know how to tell you this, he began, but you dont have any blood supply in your right hand. Mike short-roped me, which is exactly what it sounds like. Weathers gets recognized by people who have been moved by his story, whether he's at home in Dallas or in a small village in northern India. The snow began to move, and I realized I d stayed too long at the party, I was trapped. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it. Weathers' house may lack evidence of his mountaineering past, but it does attest to his post-Everest transformation. Photograph by Bill Janscha / AP), Weathers emerged as the Everest disaster's most unlikely hero. (Bruce Barcott, for one, plumbed the subject beautifully in a profile of late climber Alex Lowe last spring in Outside.) 1 was careful not to allow the kids to lake pictures of my upside-down nose, lest they sell them to the National Enquirer. Shortly before heading to Nepal, Beck Weathers had undergone a routine surgery to correct his nearsightedness. On a family vacation in Colorado I discovered the rigors and rewards of mountain climbing, and gradually came to see the sport as my avenue of escape. (Upon his return from Everest, Beck and Peach in 1996. Despite knowing he should accompany the climber down, he chose to wait for a member of his own team who he had been told was on his way down not far behind. pulled me up, and cleaned the ice out of my eyes and off my beard so he could look into my face. Inu told Schensted, I know a man who believes thai he lias a brave heart, but hes never heen sufficiently challenged to know if this is true. For a short time I had no language to explain to anybody. Then learn about how the bodies of dead climbers on Everest are serving as guideposts. And so on, often embarrassingly. OUR CLIMB BEGAN IN EARNEST ON MAY 9. ", But Weathers' story of survival has turned him into something of a celebrity. It costs $1,828,099 per year to run a fire truck. I snapped a picture of his helicopter as he flew over the ice fall back from Camp 1 with the injured on board. Climbers like Beck Weathers were in a desperate state and it was unlikely he could get through the ice fall without posing serious risk to himself and those trying to get him to safety. The film "Everest" recounts a 1996 attempt to scale the world's tallest peak. We continued to move as a group, until suddenly the hair stood up on the back of Neals neck. 1 FIRST HAD TO DEAL WITH what I was, and where I was. That day on the mountain I traded my hands for my family and for my future. I was being polite but she put me firmly in my place, and fair enough to her. First, a vaguely nosey-looking object was cut out of the skin in the center of my forehead. He was risking his life. A combination of ego, weather, and timing all contributed to the tragedy in one way or another. Beck Weathers today has given up climbing and has focused on the marriage he let fall by the wayside in the years before the 1996 disaster. : r/todayilearned 5 yr. ago There was no reason to imagine that this was going to capture the imagination the way it did. As I expected, my vision did begin to clear, and I was able to dig in the front knives on my boots, move across, and head on up to (he summit ridge. Bu! We couldnt see as far as our feet. Mike Doyle found a reconstructive plastic surgeon lor me, Greg Anigian, who would operate to save whatever function possible in my ravaged left hand. But near midnight, a Sherpa carrying tea and hot noodles greeted Makalu Gau in his tent. Neal Beidleman and some other members of the Fischer group also came along just then, including Sandy Pittman. Other pilots also risked their lives flying into basecamp to airlift the injured to Kathmandu hospitals. He flew back and repeated his death defying feat a second time. If never occurred to Weathers that Hall wouldnt make it down from the summit. Believing Weathers and Namba were both near death and would not make it off the mountain alive, Hutchison and the others left them and returned to Camp IV. After many hours, Makalu and his Sherpa team arrived at the base of the Hillary Step. If I could I would give this book 2 1/2 stars. When the blizzard struck, Weathers and 10 other climbers became disoriented in the storm, and could not find Camp IV. After peeling a sheet of ice from her body, the doctor decided that Namba was beyond saving. Mike said. I didnt hear any of it. He was alive. His wife, enraged that he had been abandoned, agreed not to divorce him and instead stayed by his side to care for him. His joints are creaky. who worked with a beautiful Nepalese woman, Inu K.C. Peach Weathers says that she and her husband deal with each other on a different level than they did in the years preceding the Everest tragedy. Helicopters in basecamp were highly unusual. First to Yasuko. Each mountain rescue will . Rob Hall, a gentle and humorous New Zealander of mythic mountaineering prowess. They found us lying next to each other, largely buried in snow and ice. Nepal pilot and army captain, KC Madan, became a hero with hisdaring rescue of Beck Weathers and Makalu Gau via a stripped downhelicopter, a B-2 Squirrel A-Star Ecuriel helicopter, that. The Sherpas carried Chen down another 1000 feet before he suddenly died. In 1996, Beck Weathers was left for dead at 26,000 feet. YouTubeBeck Weathers was left for dead twice during the 1996 Mount Everest disaster, yet still made it down the mountain to safety. THE REDEMPTION On a warm, sunny Saturday morning the phone rang in our house. High-altitude mountaineering, and the recognition it brought me, became my hollow obsession. The debate generated by those books has spilled over into films, magazines and the Internet to stir in people around the world a craving for all things Everest. This expedition is over I thought to myself. They included our thirty-five-year-old expedition leader. Weathers thought he was doomed and would have to be carried through the ice fall. At 6 the next morning, Weathers' wife, Peach, got a call from his outfitter, Adventure Consultants. My worst nightmare had come true. Fifteen hundred feet above High Camp, en route to the summit, Weathers found himself effectively blind: The altitude's low barometric pressure was flattening and thickening his cornea, thus negating the radial keratotomy he'd undergone a year and a half earlier to better ensure his safety on the mountain. At the clinic in Katmandu, my hands were cold and the gray color of a piece of meat thats been left in a leaky freezer bag for a couple of years. Now, in the new movie 'Everest,' he'll relive his harrowing survival tale. Conditions were favorable, he understood, and the climb was on; the wind had died and the sky was full of stars. On May 10, the day of the summit assault, Hall, after being told Weathers could not see, wanted him to descend to Camp IV immediately. (At Everest base camp prior to the disastrous climb. "So far I've gotten a better deal.") Cathy had lost weight since I had last seen her and I stepped forward and offered to take her backpack and carry it to camp. I expected Rob no later than three. His nose appeared like a piece of charcoal and his cheeks were black. We rapidly formulated a plan. People ask me whether Id do it again. In what is certainly the most dramatic helicopter rescue in Everest history an heroic effort by Nepalese Army helicopter pilot Madan K.C., who twice flew to above 21,000 feet to retrieve the two men, and was the agent of their eventual survival the pair was airlifted to safety from a flat spot near Camp II. Over a harrowing period of eighteen hours, Everest would do its best to devour Beck Weathers and his fellow climbers. Attached is the audio clip of that crossing. The answer is: Even if I knew exactly everything that was going to happen to me on Mount Everest. Read about the moment hikers discovered George Mallorys body on Mount Everest. "He's not constantly looking forward to something else. Peach answered and was told by Madeleine David, office manager for Halls company, that I had been killed descending from the summit ridge. Police in Maricopa County, Arizona, shared a video of a dramatic helicopter rescue on Friday after a vehicle became . Nobody has ever survived two nights on Everest outside.". Weathers agreed, waiting dutifully, but Hall never returned. Instinct rules when catastrophe strikes. He asked me to spread my fingers, make a fist and cross my fingers on both hands, all of which I was able to do. His nose has been completely rebuilt. 2020 eNCA, an eMedia Holdings company. On a couple of occasions I heard the others referring to a dead guy in the tent. At least, thats what everyone was sure had happened. . All rights reserved. But never before told in the Western press is the whole story of one climber's private ordeal: Taiwanese climber Gau Ming Ho, who survived the storm-ravaged night above 8,000 meters. The South Col is part of the ridge that forms Everests southeast shoulder and sits astride the great Himalayan mountain divide between Nepal and Tibet. Once in the mountains, I could fix my mind, undistracted, on climbing, convincing myself in the process that conquering world-famous mountains was testimony to my grit and manly character. Everest, will lecture on his memoir of hope, "Miracle on Everest," Tuesday, Feb. 9 at 7 p.m. in the Centenary College Gold Dome.
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